How do I know it is a slab leak and not something else?
Two tests point at the slab. Turn off every fixture, appliance and irrigation valve, then watch the low-flow dial on your water meter: movement means water is escaping somewhere. A patch of floor that is warm with no radiant heating points at the hot-water line under the concrete.
Read the meter, write the number down and read it again an hour later with nothing running, including the ice maker and the pool auto-fill. A change confirms a leak but not its location, which is why detection equipment belongs to a plumber rather than to guesswork.
The lookalikes are worth eliminating first, because they are cheaper. A failed shower pan, a leaking toilet seal, an AC condensate line running inside a wall and an irrigation break just outside the stem wall all produce wet flooring in the middle of a room. The slab leak guide for Phoenix homes walks through sorting them out.
- Meter moves with everything off: water is escaping somewhere on the property
- Warm floor spot: usually the hot-water line under the slab
- Wet only after a shower is used: more likely a pan or a drain than the slab
- Wet near an exterior wall after the irrigation runs: look outside first
What happens to tile, wood and carpet over a wet slab?
Tile usually survives and can often be dried through the grout, though it takes longer than carpet. Carpet pad over wet concrete is replaced. Laminate, engineered plank and glued-down wood that absorbed moisture swells, cups or lifts at the seams and generally does not recover.
The slab is the reservoir, so flooring that seals the top of it works against drying. A sheet vinyl floor or a glued plank can hold moisture in the concrete for weeks, which is why some of it comes up to let the slab breathe even where the flooring itself looks acceptable.
If the floor is being replaced anyway, that is the moment to confirm the slab reads dry before adhesive goes down. Moisture pushing up through new flooring is one of the most expensive mistakes made after a slab leak, because the second installation is on you.
Why does a concrete slab take so long to dry?
Concrete is dense and holds water deep inside, so moisture leaves slowly and mostly through the surface. Industry guidance treats dense materials such as slabs and mortar beds as specialty drying, which means mats pulled under vacuum, more dehumidification and a longer schedule than drying carpet or drywall.
Desert air helps at the surface and does nothing about the inside of the concrete, which is the part that matters. A slab can read wet for days after the tile over it feels perfectly dry underfoot, and only a meter tells you which one you are looking at. Structural drying explains how those targets are set.
Monsoon weeks make it slower again, because the dehumidifier is working against a higher outdoor dew point as well as the slab.
Who repairs a slab leak, and what are the options?
A licensed plumber locates the leak and chooses the repair: breaking out a small section of concrete for a spot repair, or abandoning the buried section and re-routing the line through a wall or the attic. The restoration crew handles extraction, flooring removal, drying and documentation around that work.
Plumbers in the Valley report leak detection in the low hundreds of dollars, spot repairs commonly in the high hundreds to low thousands, and a full re-route running into several thousand or more, with a very wide overall spread. Get those numbers from the plumber for your own house; they are not part of the cleanup quote.
If concrete has to come out, expect dust and noise for a day and a patch in the slab afterward. Coordinate the two visits: the crew can be drying before the plumber starts and will often need to come back once the repair opening is closed.
- Plumber: detection, spot repair, re-route or partial repipe, pressure testing
- Restoration crew: extraction, wet flooring removal, slab and wall drying, readings and photos
- Licensed contractor: new flooring, baseboard, drywall and cabinet repairs afterward